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continues: better breathing
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The dipstick tube and oil filter also need to be removed for access. The trick to doing this job is in removing the studs instead of trying to remove the manifold from them. You need the clearance removing the studs can give - not just to get the manifold out, but also to get the new header in. It's so tight, photography of the stud removal was impossible. The manifold will come out - we promise!
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On the passenger side, removal begins with the starter motor. After the starter is out, remove the motor mount bolt (not the entire mount) and jack the rear corner of the motor up about an inch. Use a block of wood between the jack and the pan.
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The stock manifold should come out now, and the new header can be wrangled into position. The new bolts (which replace the studs and come with the headers) can be installed once the header is in place. Remember to use antiseize on the threads - you don't want to cross-thread any of these holes on the aluminum head. It would require head removal to repair it correctly, and that's a story unto itself. The bolts also come with lock washers to keep them secure.
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When installing the passenger-side header, it's necessary to reposition the factory A/C bracket. This sounds scary, but it's no big deal. This hole near the base of the shock tower will work fine, provide needed header clearance, and reduce unwanted heat transfer.
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